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A Color Specialist

Hair Color Expert based in California who excels at silver hair. His clients include celebrated actors and Andie MacDowell.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

My top pick is a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to dry your hair. Most people don’t realise how much damage a standard towel can do, notably with grey or color-processed hair. This one small change can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while detangling and helps preserve the strength of the individual hairs, notably following coloring.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with precise heat settings. Lightened strands can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the proper tool.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

At-home lightening. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with striped effects that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid long-term smoothing services on color-treated or grey hair. These formulations are often overly harsh for weakened hair and can cause long-term damage or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their particular strand characteristics. Some overuse violet-based cleansers until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. Some depend excessively on high-protein masks and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. The other major issue is heat styling without protection. When applying flat irons, curling irons or blow dryers without a protective product, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend scalp formulas with active ingredients to enhance nutrient delivery and support follicle health. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps remove residue and allows products to perform better. Internal support including clinical supplements have also shown notable improvements. They support the body from the inside out by balancing body chemistry, stress and dietary insufficiencies.

For people looking for something more advanced, PRP therapy – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. That said, I always suggest getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Trichologist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to preserve strand health, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Building fibers are absolutely amazing if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it seamlessly blended. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had a lot of hair fall – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. Because locks are secondary, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say medicated treatments. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the main goal of cleansing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is aggravated by oil buildup. If natural oils stay on the head, they break down and become inflammatory.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a balancing act. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

Which options help with shedding?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you simply don’t want to or can’t use it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will clear up naturally. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus