Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Compared to the Nineties.

A serendipitous meeting while riding the tube in 1988 altered the trajectory of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the capital's vibrant 1990s creative scene, evolving from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"It was the height of the Young British Artists – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However since that time, Enninful believes a significant change. "I believe, we’re less accepting now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This shift is increasingly evident: the rise of populist movements, the reaction against progressive values, and the return of Eurocentric beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the previous decade, today a more divisive political personality appears as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an emblem of national pride, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the solution has consistently been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of influential figures from music.

"People with a voice should employ it," he comments, discussing those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a welcoming country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I hope this moment will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He takes comfort in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

His formative years would forge a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and diversity. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Importantly, sales increased.

"When you ignore vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has established his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since departing his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

In contrast to the popular image of fashion editors as brash and temperamental, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His life has included its share of challenges, including well-documented struggles with depression and addiction.

He has also endured serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I endured such a dark place for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This determination to be typecast has led him away from the industry that established him. He is now putting together a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"The establishment often failed to celebrate the truly innovative creators because they did not have the traditional credentials," he states.

This project itself uses a unique strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a broader vision."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the Edward of the 90s think of the Edward of today? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be proud. Back then I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We lost our home, we fled our country. I almost lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have doubted me my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve set my intention to do something."